Many of us are familiar with Whiting & Davis and their iconic metal chain link and mesh bags. Founded in Massachusetts in 1876, Whiting & Davis became a true household name after automating their signature mesh production in 1912 (having previously had to join links by hand).
"Portrait of a Clever Wife" 1927 ad featuring an Art Deco design with geometric enameling similar to the examples shown below
Throughout the decades of the 1870s-1920s -at the same time that W & D was developing its signature product- the Art Deco movement was taking shape. Fashionable decor, accessories and jewelry featured motifs, colors, and themes borrowed from the design traditions of the Far and Middle East and Northern Africa.
antique Kazak rug detail and W & D bag
The design work at Whiting & Davis was no exception and by the end of the 1920s, they were adding colorful Art Deco enameling to their patented "flat armour mesh" bags to great effect.
two examples of W & D bags next to an antique Turkish rug
As I began to research one such Art Deco Whiting & Davis purse for Fieldwork Vintage, I noticed an recurring theme of bags with similar geometric designs that seemed to mimic textiles (rugs especially) from the middle Eastern region of Turkey, Armenia, and Azerbaijan.
W & D bag and antique Turkish rug
I also learned that starting around this time, the company began commissioning famous designers to create pieces for them. Paul Poiret- the French couturier known for his incorporation and popularization of Oriental motifs into Western women's fashion of the early 20th century- was one of these.
two of Poiret's fashion designs that highlight his use of Middle Eastern-inspired motifs and silhouettes
Many of these bags are referred to by online sellers as "Elasah" bags (some have miss-labeled them "El-sah" bags and mistakenly attribute them to the later design work Elsa Schiaperalli did for the company in the late 30s). Some of the bags actually retain their "Elasah" label.
some examples of "Elasah" labels
Elasah, I learned, is a masculine Hebrew name found several times in the Bible that symbolizes creation, divine workmanship, and providence. I have to wonder if this label is a nod to the traditional art and craftsmanship of the Middle East: the Biblical Holy Land.
antique Kazak rug detail and W + D bag
I wonder also - knowing Poiret's penchant for middle Eastern inspiration and the popularity of Orientalism in the 1920s- if this line might be associated specifically with his commissioned design work for the company. The few examples of his work for W & D that I could find show stylistic similarities.
two examples of original Whiting & Davis ads featuring Poiret designs
These are just the musings of a tired vintage seller. Poiret's work for W & D doesn't seem well-documented on the internet, nor is there much to be found on the origins of the "Elasah" line. If they aren't directly linked, they certainly resonate stylistically and must have been produced around the same years. They are undeniably charming and collectible pieces of design history!
antique Kazak and Turkish rug details and W +D bag
https://whitinganddaviscollection.com/
https://thevintagecompactshop.com/
https://www.metmuseum.org/essays/paul-poiret-1879-1944
all images were found using relevant search words on the internet