Style is... unstructured and uncontrived." --Jan Barboglio
Among the many wild, weird and worn out costume pieces on the rack of a recent buying appointment in a local theater, I came across a top that stopped me in my tracks. It's impressively voluminous sleeves and dramatic ruffle collar were executed in lightly structured denim. I loved the juxtaposition of classic "workwear" and decadent proportions. Simple, but statement making.
The quality of materials and construction was apparent, and I thought for sure it would be a designer label. But the tag- " Jan Barboglio" was one I didn't recognize. I grabbed it, figuring even if it wasn't a known label, it was fabulous.
Once I had the piece home and cleaned, a little research helped me learn that Barboglio and her sister Cristina were prominent Dallas-based women's wear designers in the 1980s and 90s.
Barboglio grew up on a working cattle ranch in Durango, Mexico where she learned metalsmithing and developed her appreciation for workwear and the traditional clothing of the region. You can see these influences at play in many of her designs including the blouse offered at Fieldwork.
After finishing school in Dallas, Texas Barboglio worked at Neiman Marcus, undergoing their Executive Training Program at Neiman’s. She says "Neiman’s gave me a sense of quality, but my sense of style is from my upbringing in Mexico".
an example of an early "Barboglio Cristina - Jan" label
Jan and her sister Cristina launched their first apparel collection in 1982. It featured "white cotton, off-the-shoulder, tiny waist, big skirts, drawstring—one size fits all—dresses... inspired by the Mexican señoritas. " Pieces were styled with old ammunition belts worn by the Mexican revolutionaries and combat boot. "We had a great time with it and sold it at Neiman’s. " said Jan.
a piece from the sister's early collections: 1984
While their offerings diversified over the years to include more colors and fabrics ( and some distinctly "80s" pieces), threads of timeless workwear and ranchwear aesthetic run throughout. The label changed from "Jan + Cristina" to just "Jan" at some point, and then was discontinued, from what I can tell, in the late 90s.
Jan Barboglio launched a successful homegoods line around 2010s (@janbarboglio) that also plays on the rustic, primitive inspiration of her upbringing on a Mexican cattle ranch. And has said "The same customers who bought our clothes, are buying my things now."
Of her personal sense of style Barboglio says:
It’s pretty, but masculine. The materials and the combination of materials are unexpected. My style is elegant and classic but with a point of view. "
Many of Barboglio's pieces - from both lines- seem to be right at home with the work of other 1980s/90s women designers I love. Norma Kamali, Gene Ewing, and Mary Ann Restivo are a few.
Examples of Kamali, Ewing, Barboglio, Restivo. All offered at Fieldwork. I have a type!
Their designs utilize quality fabrics and understated, flattering tailoring that plays with drape and proportion to create pieces that are unfussy and empowering to wear. I think there's something special about the designs by working women for working women of the 80s and 90s. Their choices tend to reflect an emphasis on ease and self-determination. They can be sexy, but not for sexy's sake.
Theirs are the pieces I'm most likely to squirrel away in my own closet these days.
sources:
https://janbarboglio.com/
https://www.stlmag.com/design/q-a-with-artist-jan-barboglio/
https://www.dmagazine.com/publications/d-magazine/2021/september/78-women-who-make-dallas-great/
https://eleanoramorrison.substack.com/p/grit-grace-designer-jan-barboglio
https://1010parkplace.com/the-designs-of-jan-barboglio/
https://historicimages.com/products/rrr64703
please note: my intention with this post is to share research and interest with humility, not to present a final or authoritative voice. I'm always learning!