As a vintage seller with an interest in many decades I come across unfamiliar labels every week. Some pique my curiosity more than others. When I saw this new-to-me label in a denim wrap top, I knew it deserved some digging into. This piece also came with a little provenance from the original owner, and I knew it had been a special purchase when she picked it up on a trip to Paris in the early 80s.
My initial searches led me to wonder if this could be a line by French designer Dorothee Bis (more on her in a later blog maybe!). But it didn't quite add up. Then, through cross-comparing some other BIS listings I had found online I realized the critical piece of information my label was missing: the designer's name: Gene Ewing!
ah-hah! This opened up access to a lot more information!
Gene Ewing grew up in North Carolina where her mother had been a hat designer. Her education included time at the Sorbonne in Paris, and an internship at Balenciaga in Spain. She eventually made her way west to New York, then LA and began designing under the Label BIS Gene Ewing with her manufacturing partner and husband (her 4th!) in 1976.
"Her first big success in sports clothes was the prairie skirt." And you can definitely see that western, easy-going So-Cal influence in many of her designs. The label grew through the 80s and by '89 was doing $40 million-a-year in volume. She is quoted as saying "I don't want to do a billion-dollar volume like Liz Claibourne or Ralph Lauren. There comes a point where you have to stop. After $100 million, I couldn't be original anymore. A billion-dollar volume is staggering."
(for the record I share her POV on this, definitely stopping when we, mcgee hits 100 mill. gotta stay fresh)
read more from this story/interview here.
I didn't have much success finding original BIS ads showcasing the clothing, but her pieces come up here and there for resale around the internet. I love Ewing's breezy, feminine designs, and especially her use of denim and corduroy. The quality of construction is fantastic. I would be thrilled to have this jumpsuit, or this red skirt set!
(skirt image via LadyBirdVintageLA (sold), jumpsuit images via Objects without Meaning (sold), skirt set image via PinnacleVintageCo, (unavailable))
29 comments
Hello, I picked up a denim jacket of Gene Ewings today at a thrift shop. It is a large oversized almost trench denim with glitter designs all over it. Some of the commentors had worked for her, does anyone remember there being glitter in her designs? Or is this something someone did after the fact….
Was “cleaning” out a container of old clothes & found a piece of BIS. Showed it to my husband & said it was probably 40 years old. He said it looked too new to be that old-quality way back then. Can’t wait to wear it out next trip to town.
I was in my 20’s when I worked for Gene Ewing Bis. In the Bendix building downtown Los Angeles. She was a very nice lady who knew fashion. Rip. Still have my shirt from the early 80’s
My mom gave me a pink jacket and skirt with her label in it. I looked it up and found this site. I was just about to give the items to goodwill, but after reading this decided to hang on to it.
I loved and wore Bis for many many years. I still have six of her fabulous “outfits.”
I found this consignment “shop” when I was thinking it might be time to “ let go.”
However, I realize that is probably not possible as I still love them as much as ever.
Perhaps I will bequeath them to an adoring fan of Gene and her fabulous designs.